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• Why do sellers tell you their fan rated CFM and not velocity of the heat output?
• Manifolds, 90 degree angled bends, undersize and flat tubing, etc. all reduce a fans rated CFM deliver by as much as +50% (fans are not blowers!). Why do they tell you the fan rated speed and not the BTU output?
• and Many ot these type heater sellers provide "estimate" or "up to" BTU values (others outright lie - hasty “measured True”) - more honestly they should state '"delivers as little as" or "wildly over guesstimated"

• How honest is ebay seller mr. hasty (aka nomadomatic, hastyheating, mte_marketing, charles8854) claiming his fan is a blower"? Is it that he doesn't know the basic difference between a fan and a blower? Fans move air by using blades; they're designed to gently, without force, move air over a wide area. Blower use corrugated wheels to concentrate and propel air, with force and the ability to overcome resistance, through a confined passage (like your furnace ducting). No wonder he was suspended as a seller!

• Wouldn't heat vented below a fire, open or with doors, (Heat-N-Glo, Cozy, Stoll , etc) be sucked back into a fire?

• Why would a manufacture, again eBays mr.hasty (aka nomadomatic, hastyheating, mte_marketing, charles8854), highly recommend using an extra cost "Ash Tray" to keep hot embers from direct contact with heating tubes? Aren’t embers the hottest element of a fire? – Wouldn’t you want embers in direct contact with the heater tubes? What a statement of material quality!!! My product has an ember retaining screen to capture the embers so they cover the heating tubes and my original unit is 30+ years old and still going strong.

• Can you cleanup ash without removing the heater? Is it removal? Does it NEED an Ash Tray?
o Wouldn’t your fire burn poorly (more smolder than flame) with wood sitting flat on an “ash tray” being suffocated by ash and with no air circulation? How could that produce the Hot, Hot fire needed to heat high CFM heat output? What does it do for creosote build-up?
• Are the heating tubes optimally "sized (large vs. small)" and “shaped (round vs. flat, curved vs. bent).” to produce heat? – Isn’t "Air Flow" disproportionately greater (>2 X) in a 2" tube than a 1"? What happens with air expanding in a small, undersized tube? Imagine how your car would run with 2 –1" exhaust pipes rather than 1 – 2” pipe - reduced horsepower, backfire, hesitate and stall with restricted exhaust flow.

• Where does the heat from Fireplace Radiator's much touted rear mounted "Plenum" deflector go? Would it be - up the chimney?

• Is it better to have the fan sit inside the firebox (Heat-N-Glo. Cozy, Radiator, Mr.Hasty, etc.) directly exposed to the fires heat or safely outside the firebox where the heat won't affect the performance and lifespan of the unit?

• Isn't it an internet seller's obligation to insure a buyer receives their merchandise? Do they Charge you extra shipping insurance cost? I'll never understand that practice!

• Why would anyone (fireplace radiator) use cast iron in a - 'high volume, forced air wood heating system'? It can't deliver the extreme heat conductivity needed to instantaneously heat a large volume of air. Why? Well for one it’s cheap, two - it fools people. Once again - Why doesn't a seller specify its BTU output?

• Lastly my favorite of all – once again Mr. hasty, aka nomadomatic, hastyheating, mte_marketing,charles8854) comparing his heater’s efficient wood burning capabilities to that of a campfire - “how the ash in the bottom of a camp fire keeps your coals from catching a cold or how they retain enough heat to be stirred and ignite fresh kindling”. That’s anything but efficient wood burning – that’s ash suffocated, smoldering coals that produces extremely high levels of pollution, soot and creosote build-up in your flue –exactly what you’d expect burning wood on a flat zero-circulation Ash Tray.

The point is Be Careful – The seller’s claims should always be considered with caution. Consider – Cost, Quality, Functionality, and the Life Expectancy of your purchase; ask questions, digest information and research the seller (review "Feedback as a Seller", insure it's for the product you’re considering not something else (mr.hasty -junk auto parts and other stuff). Sometime what they don't say is telling you more than what they do say. Remember - the creed of many sellers is "Caveat Emptor - Let the Buyer Beware".

Finally the End: Clearly, as a product confident seller, I have provided as much info as possible concerning my product. Additionally through this documentation I have tried, somewhat humorously albeit pointedly, to highlight what things buyers should consider when purchasing, what thing they should look-out for and suggest questions they should ask. Hopefully it has been helpful to you in making whatever purchase is right for you.

One Last thing: All the claims I’ve made here are true, as attested to in my feedback, and I believe, very modest. For one - I used a moderate constant/consistent 450-degree temperature to determine the BTU ratings of my units. Given the material used in constructing these units and a large fires potential burning temp of 1000+ degrees I could have easily used a 500 or 600,…. degree temperature for establishing the Btu rating. But I believe people generally burn and which I recommend for fuel economy, medium intensity fires, so I used that fire intensity to establish the BTU output. Clearly larger fires will produce higher Btu heat output.

Once again please visit my online store (Fireplace Furnaces Inc. ) for actual product/customer testimonials and email me ( ) with any questions or if you wish to provide your fireplace information (dimensions, pictures, etc) for heater/fireplace size compatibility.
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Last Updated: 19 Jul 2014 09:53:16 PDT home  |  about  |  terms  |  contact
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